How to improve the cutting details of the cutting bed in the clothing production process?

Therefore, in the management of clothing cutting work, attention should be paid to the following "details" to eliminate waste while ensuring the quality of the cut pieces.

1、 Develop cutting plans and layout materials

1. Developing a cutting plan is the first step in cutting work, which involves breaking down the production task list into detailed parameters such as the number of cutting pieces, specifications, and number of laying layers. In theory, a production task order can develop multiple cutting plans, but when determining the cutting plan, enterprises need to consider the following details:

☑   The length of the cutting bed and the effective cutting height of the cutting blade. The length of the cutting bed limits the length of the discharge, and the effective cutting height of the cutting blade limits the number of layers of fabric laid.

☑   The performance of cutting materials. The material's recoverability, thickness, and surface smoothness all affect the length and number of layers of the fabric. For example, for silk fabrics, the number of layers should not be too many to ensure cutting accuracy.

☑   Number and specifications of nesting components. The increase in the number of discharged pieces and specifications is beneficial for saving fabric during the discharge process, but the more discharged pieces, the longer the discharge, which not only affects the quality of the fabric, but may also cause color difference in the cut pieces.

☑   The labor intensity and efficiency of workers. The development of fabric laying machines and automatic cutting systems has improved the automation level of cutting work. When formulating cutting plans, it is necessary to consider the actual production conditions of the enterprise, arrange the labor tasks of workers and machinery equipment reasonably, fully utilize the work efficiency of equipment, and reduce the labor intensity of workers.

☑   Consider the full utilization of materials appropriately. Especially for high priced clothing fabrics, when formulating cutting plans, it is also necessary to consider how to plan the laying length reasonably, in order to reduce the remaining broken materials that are less than one layer in length and fully utilize the value of materials.

2. Laying and arranging materials is the process of closely arranging the cut samples within the specified width of the fabric according to production process requirements, while pursuing the shortest material consumption during cutting. There are two types of nesting methods: manual nesting and CAD nesting. Regardless of which method is used, enterprises need to pay attention to the following details:

☑   Arrange according to the effective fabric width of the material. The material's recoverability and woven fabric edge will affect the actual effective width of the discharge, and it should be planned reasonably according to the cutting properties and production requirements.

☑   Meet the yarn orientation requirements of the cut piece. When arranging the cut pieces, they should be placed in the same direction as the specified yarn, otherwise it will affect the shape of the finished garment and cause irreversible quality problems. The front placket of the top must be aligned with the warp direction.

☑   Processing of cutting strips and grids. For cutting pieces with requirements for strip and grid alignment, the aligned cutting pieces must be placed in the same cyclic pattern during material arrangement. If there are requirements for the left and right front panels of the top, the left and right panels should be placed together when arranging the fabric.

☑   The 'high' standard for material utilization rate. The materials saved in the discharge process are equivalent to the return on profits for the enterprise, and the effectiveness of many enterprises' discharge work is measured by the utilization rate of discharge. The utilization rate of discharge refers to the ratio of the area occupied by the cut pieces to the area of the fabric during discharge. When arranging materials, while ensuring the quality of the cut pieces, a higher utilization rate should be pursued. Many enterprise arranging employees need to constantly try different arranging schemes to obtain a "perfect" arranging plan. If the subsequent cutting is done manually, while pursuing high discharge utilization, the convenience of implementing cutting staff operations should also be considered, and the cutting route should be reasonably planned to provide convenience for ensuring cutting quality.

Developing cutting plans and arranging materials is not only the design process for subsequent cutting, but also the guarantee of quality engineering.

2、 Laying cloth

After preliminary preparation, laying fabric is the first step in production operations and a key link in ensuring the quality of subsequent clothing production.

（1） Before laying the fabric, the following details should be confirmed

1. Fabric characteristics: Whether there are requirements for strip to grid, reversed hair, reversed flower, positioning pattern, etc., to confirm the laying method.

2. Is it necessary to lay the fabric with nails on the strip and grid, and if so, determine the location of the nails; To avoid damaging the fabric, an infrared stripe device can be used.

3. Maximum laying layer of fabric: Based on the characteristics of the fabric, the laying height of the fabric is determined, and then the maximum laying layer of the fabric is determined. For example, if the maximum laying thickness of a certain fabric is 5 centimeters, the maximum laying layer is calculated to be 70 layers.

（2） Technical details in fabric laying

1. The width of the fabric should be at least 0.5 centimeters larger than the layout plan. If the width is smaller than the layout plan, it should be placed aside for further processing.

2. Laying length=Layout length+2 centimeters.

3. Pay attention to reducing tension as much as possible when laying the fabric, and ensure it is straight and smooth, especially for elastic fabrics that not only have a certain degree of looseness but also remain flat; For knitted and elastic fabrics, companies with conditions should try to use tension-free laying machines for laying.

4. Separate each layer of fabric with a certain method, such as thread, paper, etc., and mark them properly.

5. Keep the edges of the fabric neat.

6. Pay close attention to the appearance quality of the fabric while laying it, and mark any obvious fabric defects such as oil stains, holes, and defects to facilitate the work of the inspection staff. Serious quality issues should be promptly reported to the material department to facilitate the return and exchange of fabrics as soon as possible and ensure production time.

7. After laying, place the layout plan on the top layer of the fabric, and use a bead needle or other tool to fix the layout plan to the upper layer of fabric to prevent slippage during cutting. Some companies use the method of adhesive tape pasting, which is suitable for laying fabrics with the back facing upwards, and it is necessary to avoid residual glue on the fabric.

8. Record the package number and cylinder number of each remaining piece of fabric for use during replacement.

（3） Details requirements for cutting the bed

1. The cutting bed is a key facility in clothing production, and the tabletop should be kept level, with a smooth surface, and not easily contaminated or retained with fabric fibers and feathers.

2. For fabrics with high air content such as fleece, it is recommended to use a cutting bed with vacuum suction and air supply devices as much as possible. This can greatly reduce the air content of the fabric, increase the number of cutting layers, and improve cutting accuracy.

3. Attention should be paid to the lighting and illumination of the cutting bed, so that employees can distinguish the cutting line and avoid misoperation.

After the laying is completed, cutting and trimming will be carried out.

3、 Cutting process and precautions

After receiving the production task order, the clothing enterprise can proceed with cutting and cutting through the design of the cutting plan, material arrangement, and fabric laying. Cutting is the key to cutting work. If the cutting process is not precise, it will not only affect the specifications and dimensions of the finished garment, but may also increase the difficulty of sewing. Currently, clothing companies have two types of cutting machines: automatic cutting machines and manual cutting.

Attention to details in manual cutting and cutting

1. Before surgery, confirm that the layout information is correct and fix the layout on the laid fabric. The fixing methods include bead needles, adhesive tape, high-pressure clamps, and pressure blocks.

2. Before surgery, check the condition of the cutting blade, keep it clean, the blade sharp, and in good condition.

3. Operators usually hold knives in their right hand and press the fabric with their left hand, so they need to wear safety gloves with their left hand during the cutting process.

4. Apply even force during cutting to avoid over cutting and over cutting. Keep the fabric and sample flat, choose a reasonable feeding sequence, cut small pieces first and then large pieces, ensure the stability of the cutting pieces and reduce repetitive labor.

5. Strictly cut according to the lines in the layout diagram to ensure precise cutting. The cutting amount is appropriate; The size and position of the electric drill point are accurate, and the upper and lower layers cannot slide.

6. For small pieces with high precision requirements and pieces that require precise alignment of bars and grids, a straight knife can be used for rough cutting first, followed by precision cutting with a belt knife (gantry knife).

7. After the surgery is completed, use a template to check the accuracy of the cut pieces, and compare the first and bottom layers with the template.

Attention to details in automatic cropping

The automatic cutting system consists of a computer control center and a specially designed cutting bed. At present, the application of knitted fabrics in sportswear is becoming increasingly widespread. Due to the thin material, high elasticity, easy slippage, and large curvature of the sample curve, manual cutting cannot guarantee quality.

The computer control center reads the discharge information, calculates the displacement of the tool holder and holder, and controls the positioning. It also calculates the cutting angle of the tool and controls the speed to ensure that the cutting tool is always vertical, and automatically controls the distance between the blade holder and the sharpening. Therefore, before cutting, it is necessary to ensure that the cutting blade is vertical, and that the cutting angle and speed are appropriate.

The automatic cutting machine should also pay attention to regularly replacing the bristle bricks on the cutting bed surface to ensure the level of the cutting bed surface.

Details to be noted in cutting processing

Cutting is the fundamental component of clothing, directly affecting clothing quality and standard processing time. The pre-processing of the cut pieces after cutting is also a key process in cutting. Good pre-processing of cutting pieces can facilitate the processing of sewing workers.

1. Inspection film

Inspection is the inspection process after cutting is completed, in order to avoid unqualified cut pieces entering the sewing assembly line; Verify the cut pieces against the template to ensure they are within the allowable tolerance range; Compare the top and bottom layers of the same stack of cut pieces to check if their specifications are the same, whether they are skewed or uneven; Pay attention to the inspection of defects. The allowable requirements for defects in different parts of clothing are different. For unacceptable defective clothing pieces, they should be replaced in a timely manner.

2. Number

To ensure that a piece of clothing is on the same layer of fabric and avoid color difference, it is required to number or label the cut pieces one by one.

When marking, a marking machine is generally used to avoid ink contamination of the cut pieces. If the ink color is too heavy, handwriting can also be used. Light colored fabrics and thin fabrics are numbered with light colored ink or white pens and pencils. A designated marking area can be left on the template for employees to easily identify.

3. Draw a line

Marking the cut pieces is to mark the subsequent internal sewing process and ensure the specifications and dimensions. Generally, the cut pieces of denim fabric are coated with powder, and the post-treatment washing process will remove the traces left by the coating. For steam ironed pieces of clothing, soap can also be used for marking. You can also use tools such as silver pens to draw lines.

After the cutting pieces with engineering quality enter the sewing process, the sewing workers can correctly complete the combination and local processing of the cutting pieces based on the information on the cutting pieces, and easily and efficiently avoid quality problems caused by wrong matching of clothing cutting pieces.

In order to avoid affecting the overall quality due to the cutting process, the quality of the cutting project can be strictly controlled from the following aspects to improve the quality of clothing:

①. Carefully inspect the pieces and prevent any defective pieces from entering the sewing process;

②. Draw lines, brush powder, and make marks as references for the sewing position and subsequent processes;

③. As a reference for aligning the sewing seam, the cutting edge should be precise and the quantity should not be too much or too little;

④. Display cutting information, often using numbers, work tickets or information cards attached to bundling tapes, etc.